The New Gucci: Androgynous, or just odd?

By Tuesday, January 20, 2015 0 , , , , Permalink 0

Couldn’t help but notice all the press on the latest Gucci menswear show in Milan over the weekend. Apparently creative director Frida Giannini had been abruptly dismissed a week or so ago, and the head of accessory design stepped in with a whole new collection. And a new aesthetic. It’s androgynous–chiffon shirts tied at the neck with romantic bows–and it’s very different from the retro-sleek style Giannini embraced for the decade she designed for Gucci. Some said the white blouse and necktie look and the bleue, blanc, rouge color palette were a tribute to French cultural figures in light of the recent attacks in Paris. Certainly the berets, silk poet’s blouses, and fur-lined capes alluded to a kind of bohemian, Gallic cool. Overall, I like Gucci’s new direction. It’s definitely quirky, but it feels more in tune with what’s happening on other runways and more responsive to larger cultural themes.